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Car won't idle - where to look next??Hey all! I am a brand spanking new member with a dilemma (big surprise, eh?). I am not a tuner however I know a fair amount about cars. I do not have sufficient amount of money to pay another person to fix my vehicles so I finish up being a DIY-er. I have gotten pretty handy after 20 or so years of that (oh, yeah...I am old too). This is my sad story...thank you for listening. I've a 91 Accord EX Coupe 2.2L that I killed in the driveway the other day. After that it refused to begin. It cranked strong however showed no sign of firing. My initial guess was that the timing belt had jumped a tooth putting me out of time far enough to prevent it from firing however not far enough to hit valves. I began troubleshooting. I sought to steer clear of the timing belt so I eliminated many easier things first. Here is the majority of what I've looked at more or lower in purchase. I can have forgotten several things...we seem to have looked at nearly each programme on the auto. Timing mark on flywheel is aligned when rotor (in distributor) is pointing at cylinder #1 electrode - looks right. Replaced rotor and cap. Ohmed out coil compared to a brand-new unit - great. Checked spark multiple ways - timing light, open spark plug, screwdriver to block...initially, spark looked weak, replaced plugs...immediately bright blue-white. Checked alignment of timing mark while cranking - looks great Pulled top cover from timing belt and aligned timing mark, made sure marks on cam pulley are lined up amongst top edge of the block. They're - great. Smelled spark plug after cranking...smells like gas. Checked for fuel pressure at fuel rail - looks great...sprays similar to a mother...no gauge available. We also bought a new main relay and compared the electrical measurements from the new one to the aged one. One diode measures different by 0.1V forward bias voltage (0.7V instead of 0.6V). Based on the wiring diagram of the relay, we used a 12V power supply to operate the relay and when closed, the terminals are dead shorted as they ought to be. It's a great relay. Disconnected intake duct from air cleaner box and sprayed starting fluid into the duct while cranking. Engine stumbles and acts like it wants to begin. This suggested fuel was a dilemma. Immediately this is where things get truly weird...we got pissed off and only kept cranking...like minutes. I was sure we'd fry the starter. However then the engine stumbled...stumbled...stammered...and holy effing mother...it began!!!  My buddy was cranking it and he held his foot on the throttle and it ran perfectly smooth at about 2500 or so. He'd rev it and it was gorgeous...then we decided to let it drop to an idle and it was like we had shut off the key. Dead. Immediately, when we crank, it's back to step one. No stumble, no sign of life. Dead...even starting fluid doesn't result in anything. I also jumpered the service plug by the ECU to gain any codes. My car had been showing a check engine light since I bought it a year or so ago. The code that the ECU throws at me is 41 which is the O2 sensor heater. I will replace it as quickly as I get the car running...bottom line is, there is no code related to the no-start or no-idle condition. Since this we've ohmed out the MAP sensor and it tests great. We also ohmed out the injector resistor (I think that is the name) and it's great. I only cleaned the idle air control valve. Also, we ohmed out the solenoid that drives it and it appears great. As you're able to view, I've achieved many diagnosis on this auto. Not a thing has been found that ought to prevent this car from starting and running. It is an inclusive mystery. If anybody has ideas or suggestions, I'd be very grateful. It's about 28 degrees out and I don't desire to keep riding my motorcycle to work (15mi every way). Read more on this topic 1991 accord very bad idle/no idle!Hi, im new to this forum and recently purchased a 1991 accord dx coupe, since owning it it has recently began to run very rough once warmed up and check engine light comes on shortly after. It wont idle on it is own however will run if im giving it gas and will run smooth at over 2,500rpm however if it under that it is certain to die unless i keep it running however like i said runs very violently under 2,500rpm. Possible EGR problem? or idle air control? The check engine light came on about a fortnight prior to it began running like this however never affected runnability until immediately. Any assist would be very very much apprieciated!! My compliments on this internet site too! One of the top and well place together ive seen.Thank you in advance! Brent Read more on this topic Are SFI (Sequential Fuel Injection) engines supposed to idle high in the cold?I own an 87' Accord. It has a 2.0L SFI SOHC water-cooled engine in it. At first glace, I thought this car was carbuerated. However upon looking at my vin#, records show that this call is fuel injected. My question is this -Is it normal for these types of engines to idle high (2,000 RPM) in the cold, and then kick back to normal idle speed when the engine warms up?Read more on this topic
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